8 things to check before buying a used car

Sellers fall into several types, from typically cheapest to most expensive: driveway traders, independent garages and franchised dealers. Franchised dealers usually give more support after the sale, but a bigger business means more overheads and a higher price. You can also buy at auction (quick, but under pressure) or online (you may be committed even if the car differs slightly from the listing). Private sales are often cheaper, but sellers may overvalue the car and you have fewer rights.

Garages and established dealers tend to inspect cars thoroughly and offer a decent warranty, typically six to twelve months. A very cheap car from a driveway trader may save money now and cost repairs later. Ask plenty of questions and make sure the car is described accurately.

Buying from a trader, you are covered by the Consumer Rights Act: the car must be of satisfactory quality, as described and fit for purpose. In short, you have a short window, 30 days from delivery, to reject a faulty car for a refund. After that, the trader can generally repair or replace it, and in the first six months the fault is assumed to have been there when you bought it. After six months it is for you to show the fault was already there. Rights last up to six years in England and Wales (five in Scotland).

If you paid wholly or partly by credit card, your card provider may share responsibility. If you have a dispute, start by writing to the trader. Private sales give you less protection. These rules change, so check Citizens Advice or the government’s consumer guidance for the current position.

• Tyres: enough tread (1.6 mm is the legal minimum) and correct inflation. A mismatched or worn set can cost you soon. See when to change tyres.
• Bodywork: dents, scratches and kerbing, gaps or colour differences between panels (a sign of a crash repair), ripples, missing trim.
• Under the bonnet: fluid levels and leaks, and any milky substance under the oil cap, which can mean the head gasket has failed.
• Electrics: windows, locks, radio and dashboard lights, including warning lights that switch off when the engine starts.
• Glass: chips or cracks in the driver’s eyeline can fail an MOT.
• Interior: stains, tears or smells, and wear consistent with the mileage.
• Spare wheel and tools: a spare, jack and adapter, or confirm the car has run flat tyres. See what are run flat tyres.
• Starting: it should start first time, and a professional inspection can show whether the car has been clocked.

Minor faults can be useful bargaining points. Some are deal-breakers.

Ask to see the MOT certificate, the V5C (proof of the keeper), proof of tax and insurance, and a history check such as HPI to see whether the car has finance owing or has been written off.

Check whether the steering pulls to one side, whether the clutch bites smoothly (revs without speed can mean a worn clutch), gear changes, brakes, any odd noises or exhaust smoke, the temperature gauge, and cold starting. Listen for suspension clunks, and ask yourself if the car is comfortable. A car that pulls to one side may also have a tyre or wheel alignment problem.

Compare the car with others on the market and set a budget. Do not be aggressive: go through the car with the seller, point out the issues, and make an offer if it is overpriced, and be ready to walk away. View a private car at the seller’s home so you can check the V5C matches. Do not be pressured. From a dealer you may get extras, such as a full tank of fuel, if money off is not possible.

Be completely sure before you transfer money, and get a receipt. Avoid cash, especially for higher-priced cars, because it is hard to trace. Use a trackable method: an online or phone transfer, or a banker’s draft. Cheques need to clear first. From a dealer you may be able to buy on credit, but rates on used cars are often higher than a personal loan.

Just bought a used car and unsure about the tyres? Call us and we will take a look.